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New York Fashion Week 2017 - Key Fabric Directions

New York Fashion Week 2017 - Key Fabric Directions

As New York Fashion Week 2017 comes to a close we analyse the 2017 Fall collections and highlight key fabric directions to watch in the areas of surface, texture, shape and technique. These directions are the checkpoints for larger trend development in textiles for Fall 2018.

As a general comment there were many art references playing into fabrics and trims at New York as designers took inspiration from artists and sculptors like Max Bill, Cy Twombly, Robert mapplethorpe, Kees Van Dongen and Paul Nash.

We expect this art inspiration will also be prominent in London, Paris and Milan but lets take a look at New York first!


1 / Surface Seduction

The classic aesthetic of matt/shine is updated by Sies Marjan in a direction we have penned as 'Surface Seduction'. Through tonal use of colour on contrasting levels of shine a fresh aesthetic is born.

Surface Seduction | Images: Sies Marjan | Agnes Lloyd Platt

2 / Serpent Jacquard

There have been various updates to the 'wet look' in New York. In this case we see glossy, scaly textures from the patent coating of jacquard from Zac Posen.

Serpent Jacquard | Images: Zac Posen | Adam Plucinski

3 / Lacquered Shearling

An alternative update to the 'wet look' was seen at Proenza Schouler and their coated leather paired back with shearling, the contrast of surface texture and surface shine bringing newness here.

 Lacquered Shearling | Images:  Proenza Schouler  |  Gallery Rembrandt

Lacquered Shearling | Images: Proenza Schouler | Gallery Rembrandt

4 / Holographic Lame

Finally in the surface area we have highlighted 'Holographic Lame' from Audra, its flashy characteristic made sophisticated by a large scale floral print.

Holographic Lame | Images: Audra | Acne Studios



Contemporary softness is key in the area of texture with scale and proporation bringing modernity.

1 / Fantasy Boucle

'Fantasy Boucle' sees oversized loops, deep luxurious pile and lofty boucle yarns in cashmere, silk, mohair and super fine alpaca blends for a premium knit direction.

Fantasy Boucle | Images: Prabal Gurung | Jess Clifton

2 / Re-Upholstered

 'Re-Upholstered' is a heritage direction with a textured twist as we see chenille yarns creeping over sumptuous jacquards in a contrasting story of tattered grandeur.

Re-Upholstered | Images: Daria Ryabukhina - Kuskovo interiors |  Zac Posen

3 / Powder Puff

'Powder Puff' sees marabou feathers coming into play adding an element of tactility and romance when used in abundance.

Powder Puff | Images: Erdem | Paul and Joe

4 / Paper Taffeta

Lustrous shine and a handle like superfine paper, this is a crisp taffeta that feels light and gracious to wear.

Paper Taffeta |Images: Brock Collection Fall 2017 | Michel François 



1 / Couture Architect

'Couture architect' sees Delpozo softly sculpting futuristic felt cuts André Courrèges would be proud of. This is a direction likely to grow into a bigger trend through the amount of scultural references we are seeing elsewhere,  Max Bill and Henry Moore in paticular.

Coutrue Architect | Images: Biyanjianmo | Delpozo

2 / Organic Femininity

Elsewhere in shape we see free flowing organic forms in flounces, pleats and ruffles. 

Organic Femininity | Images: Rhié | Marina Giller


Fragmented, patchworked and puzzle aesthetics were prominent in textiles at NYFW  2017 with designers like Victoria Beckham taking inspiration from artists like Paul Nash

1 / Velvet Mile

Zac Posen demonstrate tasteful craftsmanship in their stunning gown sewn together from strips of velvet ribbons. The trend for re-purposing or seemingly patching things together sophisticated here.

Velvet Mile | Images:  Zac Posen | Daily Overview

2 / Abstract Patchwork

We are seeing a return to patchwork effects in textiles right now but this direction is not to be confused with homespun or slow movements. This aesthetic is modern and geometric, even abstract, and can be found in weave aswel as applique.

Patchwork Geometry | Images: Cle Tile | Thom Browne

3 / Panelled

Classic tailoring fabrics are re-imagined in body conscious panels at Victoria Beckham as she caters to 'real women' inspired by surrealist landscape painter Paul Nash.

Panelled | Images: Victoria Beckham | Paul Nash

Noteworthy fabric trends we see emerging from New York are contrast coatingcontemporary softness, sculptural dimensions and abstract collage which we will be covering in a trend report at the end of fashion month. Sign up to our newsletter here to stay in the loop.

Which of the above fabric directions do you think will be most influencial for the upcoming seasons?

Leave a comment below and let us know.

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